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Bakuchiol, Explained

Bakuchiol arrived in skincare marketed as "natural retinol", which is both useful shorthand and slightly misleading. Here's what it actually is, and when it's the better choice.

What it is

Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant with a long history of use in traditional Indian and Chinese practice. Chemically it has nothing in common with retinol — it isn't a form of vitamin A, and it isn't a retinoid.

What earned it the comparison is that studies have found it produces broadly similar effects on the appearance of skin, with considerably less irritation. Same destination, different road.

What it's used for

Bakuchiol is chosen for the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and tone. Skin generally looks smoother and more even with consistent use, and as with retinol, this is a matter of months rather than weeks.

How it compares to retinol

The honest summary: retinol has decades more research behind it and remains the reference standard. Bakuchiol has a smaller but genuinely encouraging evidence base, and a much better tolerability profile.

  • Irritation — bakuchiol rarely causes the flaking, tightness and stinging that retinol can during the adjustment period.
  • Sun sensitivity — bakuchiol doesn't carry retinol's photosensitivity, so it can be used morning as well as night. Daily SPF is still sensible, as it is for everyone.
  • No adjustment period — most people can use it daily from the outset without building tolerance.

Who it suits

Bakuchiol is worth considering if your skin is reactive or sensitive, if you've tried retinol and abandoned it, or if you'd rather not manage the photosensitivity that comes with retinoids.

It's also frequently chosen during pregnancy and breastfeeding, when vitamin A skincare is generally avoided. That said, do check with your GP or midwife before using it — "plant-derived" doesn't automatically mean suitable in pregnancy, and it's a conversation worth having.

How to use it

Morning, evening or both, after cleansing and before moisturiser. No tolerance-building required.

It layers comfortably with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and peptides. Some people use bakuchiol on nights they skip retinol, which is a perfectly reasonable way to run both.

Explore our bakuchiol skincare, or see all active skincare.

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Created with AI assistance, edited by Paul Barratt.