Azelaic acid doesn't get the attention retinol or vitamin C do, but it's quietly one of the most useful actives on the shelf – particularly for anyone whose skin reacts badly to everything else. Here's what it is and how to use it.
What it is
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that occurs naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. Despite the name it doesn't behave like the exfoliating acids — it isn't an AHA or a BHA, and it won't give you the surface peel that glycolic does. It works differently, and more gently, which is much of its appeal.
What it's used for
In cosmetic skincare, azelaic acid is chosen for the look of uneven tone, visible redness and the appearance of congested or blemish-prone-looking skin. It's one of the few actives that addresses both tone and texture without being harsh about it, and skin often looks calmer and more even with consistent use.
An important distinction: azelaic acid also exists as a prescription medicine at higher strengths, prescribed for specific diagnosed conditions. That is a different product under a different regime. If you're managing a diagnosed skin condition, speak to your GP or a dermatologist rather than relying on a cosmetic formula — they're not interchangeable.
Strength and format
Over-the-counter formulas generally sit around 10%, in creams, gels or serums. Texture is worth thinking about: gels feel lighter on oilier skin, creams suit drier skin, and some formulas have a slightly grainy or matte finish that takes a little getting used to under makeup.
How to use it
Azelaic acid is one of the easier actives to add. Most people tolerate it once or twice daily, and it doesn't carry the same photosensitivity concern as the exfoliating acids — though daily SPF remains a good idea regardless.
A mild tingling on application is common at first and usually settles. If it persists or your skin looks irritated, reduce to alternate days.
It layers well with almost everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are all comfortable companions. It can be used alongside retinol, though if your skin is sensitive, use them at different times of day rather than together.
Who it suits
Azelaic acid is often the answer for people whose skin is too reactive for glycolic acid or retinol but who still want to address tone and texture. It's also a reasonable option during pregnancy when many actives are off the table — but do check with your GP or midwife first, as with anything applied regularly during pregnancy.
Explore our azelaic acid skincare, or see all active skincare.