Squalane rarely gets top billing, which is a shame – it's one of the most useful and least troublesome ingredients you can add to a routine, and it makes almost everything else easier to tolerate.
Squalane and squalene
Worth getting straight, because both appear on labels. Squalene (with an "e") is a lipid your skin produces naturally as part of its own sebum. It's also unstable and oxidises readily. Squalane (with an "a") is the hydrogenated, stabilised version used in skincare — same benefits, far longer shelf life.
Historically squalene was obtained from shark liver oil. Today's cosmetic squalane is almost always derived from olives or sugarcane, but if plant origin matters to you, it's worth confirming on the label.
What it's used for
Squalane is an emollient: it softens and smooths the surface of the skin, leaving it feeling supple and looking more even. Because its structure is similar to skin's own lipids, it absorbs quickly and doesn't leave the greasy film heavier oils can.
It's also used to help keep moisture in. Humectants like hyaluronic acid attract water; emollients like squalane help stop it escaping. The two together do more than either alone.
Who it suits
Almost everyone, which is unusual for an oil-textured ingredient. Squalane is non-comedogenic and light enough for oilier skin, while being genuinely nourishing for dry skin. It's typically fragrance-free and rarely causes reactions, making it a sensible choice for sensitive skin.
It's particularly useful for anyone using demanding actives. A few drops of squalane after retinol or an AHA takes the edge off considerably, without interfering with how they work.
How to use it
Squalane goes towards the end of a routine, after water-based serums and either before or instead of a moisturiser depending on how dry your skin is. A few drops is plenty — press it into damp skin rather than rubbing it in.
It can also be used as a buffer: applied before a strong active, it slows delivery slightly and makes the whole thing gentler. That's a useful trick if you're building tolerance to something.
Explore our squalane skincare, or see all active skincare.